My penultimate challenge!

Today is Thursday, I have just under a week left in India and Claudine left today! Don't worry we didn't fall out, it was part of the plan, she left for Dehli today and returns to the UK on Saturday and I didn't want to spend New Years Eve in the bitter cold, sunshine on the beach somehow seemed more appealing, so I am here until the 4th?!!
By now you must have guessed that we had no problems crossing the border back to Kerala, mind you, it helped that we flew over as all other crossings bar trains and planes have been cancelled.
And as we found last time round in this lovely State in India (known as God's own Country), it is sooo hot and humid, needing to constantly have a shower and therefore not really minding that there only seems to be cold water available where we are staying!
Varkala Villa's is very nice, the room passed Claudine's inspection and Sunil, the owner, has been very helpful and welcoming. We are situated on the South Cliff, however, as expected most things happen on the North Cliff! It is only a 25 minute walk over, but climbing up and down a cliff side even with steps, is quite an effort in this heat!
Apart from the two cockroaches we caught (ok we screamed and Sunil caught them), our room was fine. However, now that Claude has left - at 3am this morning! - it all feels very strange and defly quiet!!
We had a great adventure over these last eight weeks - can't believe all that time has passed - and I am not saying it was perfect the whole time, of course we had the odd little 'tiff', but through it all I think we realise we do have a very good friendship that has survived all sorts over the last 27 years and should continue to do so, despite the fact that she drives me insane with her bloody OCD!!! (nothing you don't know already Claude).
And so I have decided to switch hotels and move on New Years Eve to one that is just off the North Cliff and the room not only has a TV but Wifi, which makes me very happy (yes I know, now I am turning into my dad!!). But I feel I need a few home comforts to guide me through the next few days whilst I am out of my comfort zone and alone in a 'strange land'.
At present I seem to be resembling a noughts and crosses game!  you see I have had so many mosquito bites and my ex once informed me that to ease any itching or soreness for bites and stings, one should press one's nail into them and making an indentation like a little cross mark so that the centre of the cross hits the centre of the bite/sting! Strangely enough it works!!! But not very attractive; good job my collection of freckles is building up substantially and acting as fantastic camouflage!
This morning as I woke to a half empty room and no sounds of Claudine tip toeing around trying not to wake me whilst walking into tables, chairs or anything else and crying out 'oh shit', I asked nana, who I think is watching over me, to guide me to meet some nice friendly people that I can spend time with. Then whilst having breakfast at the homestay, I got talking to an Irish woman called Deidre, who arrived two days ago and is here on a yoga break with a bit of touring thrown in. And now I have been invited to join her and her friends for dinner this evening at an Indian lady's home. So I am off to get ready for some home cooking - Indian style. (so much for 'no more curries!!!)

Bye bye Tamil Nadu ... another border crossing on it's way!

For someone who hates shopping, I seem to have been taken over by some kind of spirit that needs to spend money!! (maybe it is 'The Ghost of Christmas Presents'?!) but since my last posting I have managed to buy myself another pair of earrings, a little hand made bag, a shawl, a bespoke pair of sandals and put a deposit down on a little summer dress that I have designed and is being made!! Unfortunately there is yet another strike out here! Not exactly sure what it is this time, as there are various stories going around, either something to do with the problems at the border that is on going, or something about the local government wanting to knock the shops down to make a clear pathway around the temples in the village?! Either way, nearly all the shops are shut today and Ruby the tailor is unable to make it over with our new clothes but has promised to post them to us in the UK - I won't hold my breath!!
Yesterday we had the best weather so far since arriving in Tamil Nadu, it was just perfect for a Christmas day lazing by the pool. Especially as I didn't get to bed until the very early hours of the morning, having spent all night at a cafe chatting to a cute looking, funny 21 year old 'Indian Hippy'. Until eventually he asked me to go back to his for a party ... for two!?! I wasn't sure what was more off putting; the fact that he was young enough to be my son and I didn't really relish the idea of playing Mrs Robinson to his Benjamin Braddock (The Graduate) or the fact that when he told me his name was Borat, I couldn't get the image of a moustachioed Sacha Baron-Cohen in a bright yellow mankini out of my head!!
I mean please!!!
And so I let him down slowly, with a smile and a pat on the knee and left.
Today we are catching a plane to Varkala back in Kerala, fingers crossed the planes will not have any problems crossing over the border. But this is India and who knows what she has in store for us next ...

Sun, sea, swimming pool and .... shopping!!!

Oh yes!! Yet again we have chosen the perfect place!! And it was only an hours drive from Pondicherry and therefore not enough time for me to get car sick - well it helped that I have now decided to sit in the front passenger seat. Mind you then I spend most of the journey holding my breath and slamming my foot down on an invisible break, while grabbing onto the handle above the passenger door - oh my god I am turning into my mother!!
Over the next few days we are staying at The Seabreeze Hotel in Mallapuram. It is situated on the beach as well as having a large swimming pool within it's massive grounds. Our room has a lovely Verandah just over looking the pool and there is a whole array of shops, cafes and restaurants within easy walking distance ... oh yeah and there are a few more Temples nearby too.
Yesterday was spent just mooching around, getting to know the area and generally DO NOTHING!! Today ... Claude and I made our way over to the Local Tourist Office to find out what was going on in the Village over Christmas. The man behind the counter, smiled, wobbled his head and told us everything would be closed from tomorrow until the 27th - even the restaurants!!!
Now I could survive on a few packets of crisps, a larger packet of biscuits and various things made from refined sugar with a few additives thrown in. Claudine however, started to break out in a cold sweat; for someone as slim and petite as she is, she has the largest appetite known to womankind!! And so before she turned into a complete juddering wreck, I tried to assure her that not only was this country not Christian, but that we were in an extremely touristy area, where there will be plenty of people coming to spend the holiday season and so there would be no way that the Restaurants would be closed over the next three days.
She didn't look convinced and so, we made our way over to The Shore Temple for some enlightenment and a quiet prayer. 
The gods must have been smiling down on us, though I am quite surprised as to why, considering that as we made our way around the 7th century holy ruins, deep in concentration. I realised that Claudine was lagging behind. I turned around to find her standing by a small ancient rock that was sticking out of the ground, concentrating very hard as she scraped cow dung off on it from the base of her shoe!!!
Anyway, as I said, The gods were smiling down and listening to our prayers as it was revealed to us that not only would all the shops be open AS WELL as all the restaurants. But there would be celebrations and partying tomorrow night as well as a months music and dance festival starting on Sunday eve!
Phew!! Moral of this Story ... All Tourists Offices know is 'Sweet Fanny Adams!'
Feeling much calmer Claude took off to look at a few more temples whilst I took off to go and sit by our pool, but got side tracked and ended up stopping off at a jewellery shop and buying a couple of pairs of gorgeous silver earrings!!
Feeling rather pleased with my purchase - as generally I hate shopping - I met up with my traveling partner for lunch, where she admired my new pieces of jewellery and asked me to show her where they came from. I did and ended up buying another pair!!!
Tomorrow is Christmas eve and it really doesn't feel like Christmas at all out here. Not in a bad way at all. It feels great not to have the whole pressure of what to do, who to see, what to buy etc ... This Christmas I intend to spend by the pool ... in the sun!!! Perfect!

'Frendians', hairless legs and a large golden golf ball?!

Mais oui!! J'arrive!!!
From the moment the car drove into Pondicherry, we could smell the fresh sea air and clean streets!! The roads were actually pot hole free and the pavements were made of ... pavement!!! Even the very few open sewers smelt like roses!!! What a welcome change!! And so to all you Frenchies that I have ever been rude to, I would like to take this moment to apologise profusely. For this little French Colonised town is a sight for sore eyes and an aroma for sore noses - thank you!!!
Our hotel - 'The Executive Inn' is classed as a decent budget hotel, but the mere fact that they provide their own plug for the bath/sink was an immediate indication that we were finally going 'up market'!! This time, there were no complaints about the room, it immediately passed the 'Claudine seal of approval' and as for me, well I was delighted that free wifi was available!!
Perfectly located; we are staying about a ten minute walk from the sea front (Bay of Bengal), and an assortment of FRENCH RESTAURANTS where Indian food is pushed to the last page of the menu.
And ... there is a proper, classy, clean and professional BEAUTY SALON across the road from us - yahay!!!
Not only is the street layout on a simple grid system - as in New York and LA, but they are also finally sign posted and written in the local language as well as in French!!
We arrived here three nights ago and have one more night left before moving down to Mahabalipuram. (try saying that a few times after a couple of vodkas!!)

Yesterday we went to visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram for a moment of silence and contemplation. This Ashram was founded in November 1926 by ... Sri Aurobindo. A few months later he decided to step back from public view and appointed his co-worker Mirra Alfassa to run it, henceforth she has been known as 'The Mother'.
Over the years, the Ashram's effects have appeared over the town of Pondicherry where you can now find for example: "Sri Aurobindo Autocare Services", "Sri Aurobindo Handmade Paper Factory and shop" and various other "Aurobindo" named services. The most famous being "Auroville" but more of that later.
The Ashram itself was as expected very quiet and peaceful, but Claudine was upset to find out there were no yoga classes available, instead we were offered to join the other visitors and 'inmates', (as they were referred to), in the courtyard, to sit in medatative silence. We sat and closed our eyes and I have to say I did start to lose myself into the meditation but as per usual the little Impish part of my brain decided to put the kibosh on all that and threw in an image of a succulent piece of chocolate cake and that was it, I had to go find a patisserie! (Well we were in mini France).
Then in the afternoon we approached the hair and beauty salon with trepidation, I was a bit worried after my previous experience in Fort Cochin but as mentioned before, we were delighted to find the salon and staff very welcoming and professional.
I got all my waxing done, (beach here I come) and even went for a 'Hair Spa Treatment', which involved a deep conditioning treatment as well as an amazing head massage. However, now I don't look so much like a Sadhu with dreadlocks but more like a throw back from the 70's with extra soft frizzy hair - because SARA even though they are experienced hair dressers, they still don't know about hair gel or mousse for curly, frizzy hair, in fact the poor bloke decided to blow dry my hair rather than leave it to dry naturally and I think even he was impressed that I managed to get my head through the doorway afterwards!!
Today we went to visit 'Auroville' - I washed my hair twice this morning to ensure it would like a bit more respectable.
Auroville was founded in 1969 by 'The Mother' just outside of Pondicherry and has become an experimental township where, and I quote 'The Mother': "Auroville is meant to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realize human unity."
The buildings in the town - designed by Roger Anger - are stunning, as are the gardens that are still being developed. And right in the middle of the town is an enormous golden sphere that looks like a large golf ball (or even a bit like the EPCOT Centre in Florida), known as The Matrimandir.


We were allowed into the visitors centre and invited to watch a short film about the village and the Matrimandir, where they explained to us that 'The Mother' saw it as: as "a symbol of the Divine's answer to man's inspiration for perfection". Silence is maintained inside this amazing piece of architecture as it is through out the surrounding land. But as visitors we were only allowed to look at it from about half a mile away and even though I tried to sneakily open a little gate we discovered hidden in the bushes that led to a winding path down towards the sphere. I was stopped by a stern: ''MADAM'' shouted from behind us and we turned to see a rather unfriendly looking security guard glaring at us and shaking his head.
And so Claude and I skulked off, muttering under our breaths as to how ridiculous the whole thing was which also led into a full on debate about cults, religions and Svengalis. When we looked up we found ourselves stood under the most amazing 140 year old Banyan tree - it was massive and so overwhelming we were both stunned into silence as we admired nature at it's best.
And now, I have to rush as I am returning to the beauty salon for a relaxing facial and a pedicure - I feel that seeing as I spend my working day pampering others with beauty treatments, that it is about time I got a bit of pampering myself.
And so, until we reach Mahalibapuram, I will bid you all farewell ...

From Trichy to Thanjuvore in an hour - just ...

So there was only one site to see in Trichy: the temple in Sri Ragham, however, this is a rather large, colourful and stunning temple or should I say there are about 21 of them!!! They are all gateways leading into the main golden temple in the middle, which unfortunately I was not allowed in to seeing as I am not a Hindu - well not at the moment, (only joking mum and dad!!). So we looked around as much as we could before passing out in the heat then made our way back to the hotel via domino pizzas for lunch!
Well actually there are really two sites to go and see, the second one is The Rock Temple which is ... a large temple sat on a very very very large mound of rocks. To be more precise, one has to climb approx 320 steps to reach it. Now I know I have been leaping out of my comfort zone with regard to walking and climbing out here, but I do have a limit,. Plus yet again, we wouldn't be allowed into the temple seeing as we are not Hindus. So, it was unanimously agreed that Domino Pizza had the winning vote!
That night was our last in Trichy and I didn't manage to get to sleep til quite late as I got caught up watching a very educational film on the TV - The Terminator - so you can imagine how unimpressed I was to be woken up by the phone at 7am only to find out that it was receptionist asking us something that I had no understanding of through his thick accent. So I very calmly informed the nice gentleman that we were not being picked up until 10 30am, we were asleep and could he leave us alone: "Very well madam" was the response.
And so we went to check out at 10am only to find out that seeing as we hadn't checked out at 7am and we had originally checked in at '5am' they were going to charge us for an extra night!!! This time Claudine wasn't the only one to lose it!! I was red head surviving on lack of sleep and food and wanting to get the hell out of Trichy ... we informed the receptionist that under no circumstances were we paying for our first night there, seeing as we had spent it on the sofa in the lobby because the Security Guard couldn't be woken up!! We also reminded him that considering we had been booked into a deluxe room, we had to change it as the sheets were torn and the bathroom was filthy! Claudine demanded to have the managers phone number while I informed the receptionist that we would be writing about the whole affair on 'Trip Advisor' - Claudine added in "and the Indian Tourist Board!!'' (I was tempted to point out that I was deeply offended by the Security Guards flatulence and would recommend he take a good dose of pepto bismal, but thought that may be taking it a bit too far). Anyway, the upshot was he deducted the charge for that night and we went outside to wait for our taxi driver to take us to Thanjuvore.
It was quite awkward  as the car drew up and we realised our driver was in fact the receptionist that we had just given a major bollocking too! Oh well, it meant that for the hour or so journey, he had his radio turned up full blast on some kind of Indian chat show.
We got to the hotel in Thanjuvore and were immediately taken up to our room for an inspection. Claude walked into the bathroom and very calmly stepped out, look at me and quietly said: 'I think you should take a look at the toilet'. I walked in cautiously expecting to see a dead rat floating in it, but it was so much worse, for there in the left hand side of the bathroom was ... an Indian squat toilet!!! I looked at Claudine, who by this point was already complaining of an upset stomach. And we both turned to the housekeeper and in unison exclaimed: 'Sorry, we can't use those, do you have a room with a normal, er western toilet?' Thank goodness they did!!!!
We settled into the room and went out for lunch ... there was even less on offer than in Trichy! But we found the one good restaurant recommended by the hotel rather than their own - filled ourselves with Chinese noodles and went in search of 'The Big Temple'.
It was absolutely stunning!!! Yet again more than one building and the carvings in the stone of all the gods, goddesses and their worshipers was so perfect.
We tried to walk around at a slow pace, taking in the magnificence and feel of the whole place, but unfortunately where ever we turned there were Indian people trying to get sneaky photographs of us - 'The Whities' , honestly it was like being chased by the paparazzi!! Some thought they were being really subtle as one person would casually stroll close to us and make out he was posing for the picture near a statue, when you could quite blatantly see his friend was trying to get us in the shot!
We ended up having to run off, whilst they followed in hot pursuit videoing us from behind!!!
Finally we escaped and made our way back to the hotel via a very posh hotel that we had found, where we treated ourselves to a slap up meal.
This morning I woke up to find Claudine running to the loo for the third time, Dehli Belly has struck again!!! And I have to say, my stomach wasn't great either, but I am putting that down to the little 'scooby snack' I had yesterday afternoon which consisted of: a pack of fruit mentoes, a bag of cheesy puffs, half a bag of strawberry chews, a small packet of chocolate bourbons and half a litre of grape flavoured water ...
Nor did it help at breakfast when we both decided that the full Indian was probably not the best thing, so I had scrambled eggs and I am sure they were made with sugar!!!!
This afternoon, we gathered our strength together and walked over to the palace grounds, again a magnificent building, but most of it is now used as a library and museum where you can find some of the oldest Sanskrit texts, written in tiny handwriting on palm leaves. Mind you I have to say I was rather engrossed in the sketchings on Chinese torture that was offered at that time, one method being squeezing lemon into the prisoners eyes!
Eventually, we decided as it was 4pm, that we prob should think about food - again - and decided the best thing was to go back to the posh hotel (The Sangham) for a late lunch and the fact that their toilets were clean and smelled of flowers! So we hailed a rickshaw driver and agreed a price and off we went.
He asked us where we were from and after we told him England he exclaimed: "Oh really!!! I am a Catholic, see" and duly pointed to the stickers of Jesus stuck on his windscreen.
We smiled politely then 'Oohed and aahed' but then he shouted out what about you are you? I couldn't be bothered to go into the whole chat about being Jewish but not really practising anything, so I just muttered 'Yes' and the next thing we knew, he had pulled up outside his church and was asking us to go inside for a look and donate money for something to do with Jesus?! Eventually, he understood: 'No thank you, we feel sick, we would like to go to eat'. And he hurried over to the lovely Sangham Hotel, parked outside then asked us if would like any Marijuana to help us feel less sick and then he would take us shopping?!
We said our goodbyes and ran off to the dining room.
Tomorrow, all being well, we should be getting a 10am train to Pondicherry - once ruled by the French and still influenced from that time - where we have fantasized about eating croissants and baguettes. So fingers crossed; they are not curry flavoured!!!!

Too much monkey business and finally I am newsworthy!!!

Let me take you back a few days - back to Kumily in the State of Kerala ...

It is early Monday morning and Claude and I have been up and out to join our new American friend Rita for breakfast at the 'French Kitchen Restaurant'. Please don't be fooled, the only thing French on the menu was a baguette and that looked highly suspicious. However, the food was lovely, I had my banana and chocolate pancake to give me enough of  a sugar rush to get me through the early morning and we made our way back to the homestay ...

On walking through the entrance gates, the lovely lady that works there took one look at us and burst out laughing, whilst holding up the local newspaper and shouting out: 'Guess who made the news?'

She then pointed to page one and a full colour photograph of ME storming off from the Kerala/Tamil Nadu border the day before!! The newspaper is all in Malayalam (Kerala's national language) but apparently the script under was commenting on the 'poor tourist having problems getting to the other side'!! As I stared at the photo all I kept thinking was, "Thank goodness I had my hair tied back yesterday"!!

Unfortunately I didn't have time to start signing autographs (!?) as our taxi was waiting to take myself, Claude and Rita down to Trivandrum in the south of Kerala. So Claude and I ran upstairs to our room to collect our bags.

There was I minding my own business, trying to load up with my backpack, that seems to be gaining weight at each destination, when suddenly I heard a high pitch squeal and turned to see Claudine out on the Verandah (did you know that was originally an Indian word!?) surrounded by a family of monkeys - and I don't just mean the parents and kids, I think they bought their cousins and aunts and uncles too!!! Some were standing on the railings, some where on the tiled floor by her feet and some where just staring from the overhanging tree.

I was desperate to take a photo, I thought it was hysterical, but my friend was turning whiter and her pitch was getting higher as she screamed "Rosalie, do something!'' When I calmly asked her what she wanted me to do and explained that she just needed to stay calm and carry on making her way down the stairs, she told me she didn't really expect me to do anything and was just trying to let  me know that she was scared. Although

I had kind of already gathered that from her ear bursting screams and the fact that she looked like she was about to pass out.

So I finished loading my bags on my back and joined her out on the verandah, then slowly managed to get her to shuffle along towards the escape route, as the monkeys just stared back at us. 

Suddenly a 'young-un' reached out and touched the strap on Claudine's bag, causing her to screech like a mother monkey and run off at full pelt down the stairs, practically leaving a trail of smoke behind her!! (It's amazing what a bit of adrenaline can do isn't it? Usually she can hardly move under the weight of her back pack).

Claudine, Rita and I all took our travel sickness pills and set off in the taxi on our six hour drive down south and finally arrived at the Capital around 3 30pm, having spent most of the journey discussing ailments etc ... with Rita as she had admitted to us that she is a midwife back in the States - well when I say 'we' discussed, it was more like Claudine having a full on consultation starting with exzema on her face down to the pain in one of her toes, but fingers crossed, it looks like she is going to be ok!!!

We said our goodbyes and Rita went off in search of a train to take her further down south, while the two of us went for a bowl of soup before getting on the coach for our ten hour journey back up North to Trichy over in Tamil Nadu!!

The bus left at 5 30 and we settled into our seats ready for the journey ahead, quite pleased that our next hotel was going to be for three nights, giving us ample time to catch up on washing and just relax for a bit. At around 9 30 the bus stopped off at some kind of rest stop with a large cafe serving ... Indian Thalis! Claude and I had a nutritious meal of: one banana, one packet of chocolate bourbons and a mango juice - mmmm.
Back on the bus I managed to finally fall asleep, after putting my ipod on to full volume and trying to listen to Bruno Mars' album above the sound of the Indian film about death and destruction, being played on the bus also at full volume! 

We arrived at Trichy at 2 50am!! It took us about 20 minutes to haggle with a rickshaw driver over how much it would cost to take us to the hotel - by now we have learnt that whatever we are charged the price should generally be half - and we walked into the lobby of the Hotel Sonas at 3 45am!!!

You know the saying 'the lights are on but no one's home'? Well that literally was the case that day! Relieved that the hotel was open at such an early time we walked over to the bright reception area to find a notice confirming that 'check in' was 24 hours, but, no one was around!? At least we thought that was the case until we saw the SECURITY GUARD fast asleep on the sofa!!!

We walked over to him and said rather loudly: "Excuse me ... hello ... excuse me". Nothing, no response, not even a snore!

And so, resigned to our situation, we found another couple of couches and tried to sleep. Even though I kept waking up every time the phone rang at reception and yet still the SECURITY GUARD slept through!

Finally around 5 30 the 'NIGHT MANAGER' walked over and woke us up, apologizing profusely and took us up to our room; One of the more impressive rooms so far, except that the sheets were torn and slightly grubby, so we asked to see another. I went downstairs and waited by the bags while Claudine inspected a few other rooms, I figured that she would be best to sort that side of things out.

I felt very uncomfortable sitting there while the Security Guard stood by reception glaring at me, so I thought I would just try to be nice and smile at him. I did. And without batting an eyelid he carried on staring back at me, straight faced, while letting rip one of the loudest farts I have ever heard!!

I wanted to burst out laughing, I felt like I was in the middle of that scene with Peter Sellers in a Pink Panther Movie! But instead I resorted to my British roots, reached into my bag, took out my phone and pretended to be distracted by a text message and act as if everything was perfectly normal.

Thankfully, Claudine finally approved of a room and I got to lay my head down on a soft pillow and fall asleep around 6 15!
The alarm went off at 9 30 and we struggled downstairs for our breakfast in the 'Gem Multicuisine Gala Dining Room'. I had an undercooked, over peppered fried egg and crawled back to bed.

We finally both got up around 3pm and went out in search of MacDonald's!!! Unfortunately the nearest one is in Chennai, which would involve going to the airport and flying over there. And so we settled for veggie noodles at 'The Bread Basket' - don't ask!!!

So, our original journey from Kerala to Tamil Nadu was only going to take three hours, but due to the problems by the border where we had planned to cross, we ended up taking another route which took nearly 24 hours from start to finish!! What a day ... what a laugh!!!

Mission Impossible: crossing the border.

Ok so we got up reasonably early this morning, threw breakfast down our throats then to wait for our rickshaw at the homestay that was going to take us to the Keralan border, where a driver (Mr Bahal) was supposed to be waiting for us on the other side in Tamil Nadu ... however ... whilst waiting at reception, Mr Bahal calls to say he is about 60k away from the border and would call when he gets closer, fair enough ... however, Sumash - one of the guys that works at our homestay who was also our rickshaw driver - came over to say that there had been more trouble last night with people throwing stones at the buses crossing the border to Tamil Nadu so the police weren't letting any transportation through. Our only choice left was to walk across the border then for another 7k up the winding hillside (with our heavy rucksacks on our backs!!) and Mr Bahal will meet us there, but first he will have to check with the Keralan police that that would be ok and off he went.
We sat and waited for about half an hour, the day was getting hotter and hotter and the thought of a 1k walk laden with back packs was starting to freak us out, let alone a 7k one!!
Sumesh returned smiling, explaining that everything would be ok, he had spoken to Mr Bahal who was going to try to get a hold of a motorbike and bike down the 7k pick us up and bike us both and our backpacks up the hillside pillion style, to his car!! I burst out laughing and Claudine went white.
Then Sumesh took another call and informed us that he was going to to take us by rickshaw to the border at the bus depot, the Keralan police would then escort us over the border and hand us over to the Tamil Nadu police who in turn would take us up the hillside to our driver!! Again I burst out laughing and Claudine turned white!
We piled into the back of the rickshaw with our two large backpacks, two mini backpacks and one bag each and drove off to the bus depot as I hummed the theme tune for Mission Impossible.
On arriving, Sumesh climbed out and told us to wait as he went to talk to the police again.
This time he returned shaking his head, explaining that they said it was too dangerous and wouldn't let us through.
Claudine and I walked over to the police to find out what was going on, as we kept hearing conflicting reports, was it dangerous or not, were we allowed over or not. On our way over Claudine had called a Brigadier she knows in North India and handed the phone over to the chief of police to see if something could be settled. Meanwhile, the news reporters were there taking our photos and filming us!!
Finally, Claudine was allowed to step over to border and talk to the Tamil Nadu border police, she explained our situation, that we were traveling through from the UK and we had a couple of hotels and train journeys already booked and paid for ... he smiled at her and said it should be ok, but would go and check with his superior. Apparently as soon as he had walked away, the reporters walked over to Claudine and told her not to trust the TN Police, that they were bad and it was dangerous. There were about a thousand protestors on their way over and it would not be nice!!
At that point she turned on her heel and made her way back to me guarding all our bags at the rickshaw. I have never been so pleased to see her as I had been wondering where she was, why was she taking so long and had she been kidnapped, if so what was I going to tell her parents!!
To cut a long story short, we spent the rest of the day still here in Periyar, trying to work out what to do and have settled on taking a bus down to Trivindram in the South of Kerala then a coach up to Trichy in Tamil Nadu and continue with our tour.
What a pain in the arse!!! So near and yet so far!! Claudine had touched Tamil Nadu soil with her feet but was not allowed any further and so we are now going to have to spend the next 48 hours traveling to a place that would have only taken 3!!!
All part of 'The India Experience'!!!

Hirsuit in India ....

HELP! I HAVE RUN OUT OF HAIR GEL!!!!
As I think back to just over 5 weeks ago, whilst I was packing my back pack for my adventure out here in India, I remember my sister Sara pulling out my spare can of hair mousse and putting it in the 'confiscated pile'! I begged and pleaded with her to allow me to take it, but she simply smiled at me and said: "Rosalie, do you think India is some kind of backward country? Don't worry you will be able to buy hair gel/mousse out there and all the lovely herbal smelling shampoos and conditioners you need. Just take small travel sizes for now.'
Well I have to say, this may not be a backward country, but it is a country filled with people who generally have DEAD STRAIGHT, GREASY BLACK HAIR and who also seemed to be obsessed with HAIR LOSS AND DANDRUFF!!!!! I, on the other hand have thick, dry and extremely curly ginger hair!! As for hair loss, mine is so thick that I once lost a pair of earrings in it!! And I certainly don't need to be massaging coconut oil into it after washing, that ain't gonna give me a 'controlled curl'!!! I am at a loss, after trudging around various shops in many towns, I finally found a conditioner to use but absolutely NO hair gel, mousse or serum ANYWHERE SARA!!!
You may all think that I am over re-acting. But my untamed curl has become so thick and wild that Claudine has started calling me 'Sadhu'! And for those of you that don't know, Sadhu are Hindu Monks who have left behind all material and sexual attachments and live in caves, forests and temples all over India and Nepal. They don't wash or cut/shave their hair, hence the thick dread locks!! Some are feared for the curses they may place on people, whilst others are respected for their holiness.
I, on the other hand bathe regularly, do not walk around in saffron robes nor do I have any intention of giving up any of my material possessions, particularly my car, my TV or my mobile phone!
Not only that, but I still haven't found a beauty salon and am therefore walking around with hairy legs, bikini line and underarms!! All I can say is it is a good job the monkeys out here aren't Orangutans or else I could easily be mistaken and carted off to the zoo!!!
Anyway, yesterday we arrived in Periyar (also known as Thekkady), luckily the riots have calmed down for now, so all we had to contend with was the cab and rickshaw driver who tried to rip us off.
The homestay is lovely, as is the owner Suresh. Who after helping us deal with the Rickshaw driver sat and chatted with us for a while. He asked the usual question about whether we were married or not, or as he put it 'Independent women'. When I informed him we were the later and that we had both recently split up with our boyfriends, he smiled and shook our hands. Most people have asked us if we are sisters, (because we both have curly hair!) and when we respond with 'No, just friends' we get stared at. Finally whilst at Devalakolam, Joss actually said: 'Oh so you are not Lesbians then?'.
Today we went on a three hour hike through the Nature reserve and yet again survived! It was amazing walking through all the trees and bushes, seeing the monkeys swinging up high and the various birds tweeting down at us, whilst avoiding leeches in the swampy grass. Claudine was commenting on how she had trouble sleeping that night due to be so hot and sweaty. When I asked her why she didn't take the two blankets off that were over her sheet, she said she didn't want to touch them as they looked a bit grubby, but would have done if she had bought her latex gloves out with her. Then she looked down and screamed 'a leech' as a little furry caterpillar crawled up her trouser leg.
Tomorrow we are hopefully on our way to Madurai, which is in the next state - Tamil Nadu. However, due to the problems we are only able to get as far as the border where a car will meet us on the other side. I feel like I am a spy about to be smuggled through border control, it's going to be just like an episode of Spooks!!
Until then .... over and out!

Halfway there!!

Can't believe I am halfway through my trip. At the moment I am sat in a tiny internet cafe, working on a pain in the arse keyboard that keeps sticking, so not sure how long I can put up with this, especially as I am being knocked everytime someone walks past so I am about to scream!!!
As mentioned last time, we did in fact move homestays and found a much better place right in the middle of town. Munnar town itself is really not that great to look at and one would be forgiven in thinking it is a bit of a dump, however, just a couple of minutes out of town and you hit the acres of tree plantations in the hills and the scenery is absolutely stunning!! It truly takes your breath away!
So yesterday was spent being driven along the winding roads up the hills and through the tea plantations. All would have been fine if it wasn't for the fact that I have never felt so travel sick in my life!!! When the Indian people tell you that they drive on the same side of the road as us, I think what they actually mean is that they have right hand drive cars like us, but as far as the driving itself ... ANY SIDE OF THE ROAD GOES!!! Even when driving around a sharp bend on the side of a mountain!! They feel as long as the driver honks his horn before turning the bend, anyone coming in the opposite direction should be aware. Bloody scary, so much even Claudine was stunned into silence.
The afternoon was filled with a 'little two hour trek' up the hillside, to see the natural foliage and wildlife there. Our guide walked a few paces ahead armed with his bamboo stick which was great for whipping aside any over grown greenery in our way, but I have to say when he started pointing out the various Tiger footprints in the mud and Leopard scratches up the trees, I did start to think that maybe he should also be carrying a tranquiliser gun?! Luckily the only natural inhabitants we came up close to were a few Lizards scurrying past us and an assortment of brilliantly coloured butterflies!
Today was our last day here in Munnar but we will not know until tomorrow morning if the riots are still going on in Periyar (our next destination). As much as Claude and I feel very strongly in favour of the Keralans who would like Tamil Nadu to sort out the fragile Dam, we feel that taking part in a riot about it is probably taking the saying 'When in Rome ...' a little too far.
And so we spent this morning doing a little more sightseeing along the stunning greenery out here, well as much as we could considering for some reason there were various areas that had been taped off to 'foreigners'?! No one could explain to us why certain areas of greenery where alright for Indians to walk through and not us 'visitors'. I wouldn't mind, but it is not as if WE are the ones dumping rubbish on every street, field, body of water or valley out here, nor are we the ones that just drop our pants anywhere when the urge takes us to go to the toilet - I am still talking about 'dumping' here!
To calm us down, this evening we went to see a Martial Arts show. Have to say it was amazing, dating back centuries, apparently one of the first martial arts that exists - though can't remember what it is called!! After the show, Claude joined the young, fit, strong, muscular men in the pit to have a quick lesson on how to use the longest knife I have ever seen!! She would have looked quite scary marching along, wielding the sword if it wasn't for the huge grin on her face as the young, fit, strong, muscular men took photos of her. However, I think she now has a few ideas on how to sort out the pesky mosquitoes that have been plaguing us since we got over here!
So now I must make my way back to the room and pack, then see what tomorrow brings ... we are practising 'living in the moment'. However, should you see us on the front page of the newspapers, smiling behind bars, you know the riots were still on and Claude decided to practise her newly found fight moves ...

Back to reality!

Yesterday was yet again a wonderfully, relaxing and lovely day!! In the morning Jose showed us around more of the Spice Garden and Fruit trees and the rare Ayuverdic herbs that they have encouraged to grow. Then Soji and Pramad took us to see the local waterfall - well I say local but it was about half an hour in the car, which I was kind of thankful for due to the AIR CONDITIONING!!!
The waterful was beautiful (see photograph at end of last posting and yes I am sticking my tongue out!), then after leaving and managing to avoid the leaches - eurgh - we went deep into the forest to go Bat Spotting!! There were thousands of them all flying around above our heads, I thought they looked quite cute, even though my travel companion made a point of saying that they carry all sorts of diseases!!
On returning to the Farmstay, we were so hot that we ended up leaping out of the car and running straight into the pool fully clothed! Much to the amusement of our hosts! But hey, us Britishes are not always repressed and stoic! Mind you I did feel bad once I walked back to the room leaving a trail of purple water behind me on their nice cleaned white tiled floor - the dye from my new \'trendy\' purple Ali Baba trousers was obviously not as steadfast as I had thought!
After a delicious lunch I lazed by the pool then had my final Ayuverdic massage which was so relaxing I fell asleep and sat up forgetting I was smothered in loads of oil and ended up doing a spin on the hard plastic bed that would look akin to some kind of break dance!! Most attractive!
This morning Claude and I reluctantly packed our bags, our time at The Dewalokam Farmstay was coming to an end. I had my final dip in the pool and ate my final healthy meal then we said our goodbyes to everyone there. Sinta assured me that anytime I feel unsafe or unhappy in India I can come back, I should just think of the Farmstay as my home - and I started crying!!! (yeah I know, typical) I told her that is exactly how I felt about my stay there, I felt recharged and ready for the adventure ahead! And with that, Claude and I climbed into the car and we left.
Apparently the scenery was amazing for the 2 and half hour trip to Munnar, I however, fell asleep through most of it!! But when I awoke I have to say it was stunning outside. I huge smile filled my face as I took in the greenery around while the car climbed the hills. Hundereds of tea plantations everywhere! I started to relax until we nearly had a collision with the car to our left as our driver tried to overtake him on a hair pin bend! I can be quite an aggresive driver in London but there is NO WAY I would ever drive out here!!
We arrived at our homestay in Munnar ... what can I say about it. We have been spoilt over the last few days and our faces dropped as we stepped into the tiny, cold room. Suffice it to stay we are moving to another place tomorrow!
Periyar is our next destination but we are not due there for another three days. However, there has been some rioting over there due to a Dam that has a risk of cracking should there be another earth quake and if it does 33% of Kerala will be flooded. But, it belongs to the next State - Tamil Nadu - who are refusing to do anything about it.
We really don\'t want to stay here much longer than we planned!!! So if worse comes to worse, we may have to go back to Dewalokam for a bit longer -

Pinch me I must be dreaming!

I have been very re-miss in writing my blog over the last few days and that is because I am finally relaxing!!! Yahay!
We arrived two days ago at the Dewalokam Resort in Thodupuzha (in the state of Kerala) to what I can only describe as a full on 'Downton Abbey Reception'. All the staff (about 15) were waiting for us outside, with huge grins on their faces as our taxi pulled up and as we stepped out of the car, they ran over to us annointed and blessed us, then placed Jasmine leis over our necks - the scent was amazing - and then we were handed a fresh coconut with a straw and drank the coconut water inside. (supposed to be very good for the digestive system).
The main homestay itself is delightful, large bright rooms and all so clean, clean, clean! (Claudine is in heaven!)
And our room is spacious with a wonderful view of the grounds outside. There is even a proper bath and shower in the bath room as opposed to the usual shower sticking out of the wall between the toilet and sink and a big drain in the floor!
Claude and I were in shock, we just sat down on our respective beds and stared at each other, then burst out laughing in disbelief - we were in Paradise!! But as I suppose Claudine pointed out, this was our Karma, we deserved it, having been through the trials of the four weeks before ... however, there was one draw back - we are the only guests here this week, so this is going to be a very good test on our friendship!!!
The owners; Jose (short for Joseph) and his wife Sinta returned from work, (Jose is a professor of English Literature and Sinta teaches English in school) and we met them and their children Tara (12) and Paul (7). The whole family are so kind hearted and welcoming into their home. Jose showed us around, understandibly very proud of his land, on which they are growing a whole assortment of fruits, (unfortunately Mangoes are out of season!!), an assortment of Ayurvedic herbs, (healing) and various wonderful spice trees and plants. There is a river running through, which at certain times of the year can be swum in and best of all, there is a fresh water swimming pool where I intend to swim, lie out, read my book, listen to my ipod and grab a few more freckles!!

Every evening before dinner, the two chefs give us a cooking demonstration/lesson - I was most impressed with Claudine's shredded cabbage with coconuts - then Sinta and Jose eat with us for most meals and we chat.

The food can only be described as fresh, tasty and safe!!! It is all homegrown and home cooked and all completely organic. Such a treat to be able to eat fresh fruit and salad! So much so, that we are trying to think of ways to transport some of it around with us once we leave in a couple of days - though I think I may have to be dragged out of here kicking and screaming.

Yesterday, we were invited to Tara and Pauls' school to meet the principle Father Johnson, teachers and children and talk at Assembly!! Claudine put on her best R.P. accent and spoke whilst I sat and watched. Then it was my turn to talk to the teachers at their meeting after assembly. Father Johnson asked me to give the teachers some beauty tips, which I was happy to - even though Indian ladies skin seems so much better than ours!! Then he asked me what advice/tips I would give to the men, to which I replied: 'Be nice to your wives!' Thankfully they all laughed.
You may be shocked to be reading todays blog and finding there are no moans or complaints from me, but I really can't think of anything negative to say about this place and the people here. It is just what we needed!
In fact, yesterday I went to an Ayurvedic doctor for a consultation and had the first of three Ayurvedic massages. The oil is medicinal and made up specifically for the client and massaged on by two ladies at the same time. Loads of it!!! After which I had to swivel round and lie back down while another theraputic oil was poured over my head and massaged in for the next 20 minutes!!
I have to admit, I had to fight against my British reserve when I stripped off down to my underwear for the massage and the lady looked at me and pointed to my bra saying 'madam?', so I dutifully took it off only to find her pointing to my knickers too and saying 'madam?' And so I tried to act like it was perfectly normal, whipped them off and dived onto the bed and I did manage to forget about my nakedness during the treatment. That was until the end when one of the women offered to help me shower all the oils off, I smiled politely and said that I would be fine, as I practically skidded across the tiles to the shower room.
My next treatment is today at 3!
And so that is it for today, I shall sign off with a huge smile on my face as I get ready for a swim before lunch - which we have been told is going to be a typical Keralan meal. But before I go, I would suggest that should you have a bit of spare time and in need of re-charging your batteries. This is definately the place to come to. Tata!

Backwaters and hairy legs ...

Yesterday was a great day! Ok so I had to get up before 7!!! Rushed to get ready and have breakfast before the coach came to pick us up at 8 and guess what, he didn't turn up til 8 45!!! (This is India).
We were taken through the town on an hours journey on a coach with no Air conditioning, (thank goodness we could open the windows) and as Claude and I were the last on, we discovered there was only one seat available at the back of the coach!!! Luckily, I have lost enough weight over the last week that my bottom has slimmed down enough to enable me to be the 'extra person' squeezed on the back seat. Which wouldn't have been so bad if it weren't for the 10 year old German girl sat there as well that decided to start wiggling around and singing songs!!
Finally we arrived at the Back waters and climbed onto our boat - a large wooden canoe that seated about six of us! Then we were rowed along the water for about half an hour admiring the views - which have to be said were stunning and tranquil.

Eventually we moored up by the bank and climbed out to watch a couple of Keralan men shelling coconuts! It is unbelievable the kind of things that coconuts are used for, not one single part of it is wasted! Apart from the obvious food additive/snack that the pulp is used for, the shell is used for cooking utensils whilst the straw in the husk is dried out and used to make strong rope and any powdery parts are used to feed the animals, meanwhile the outer pod is used as 'firewood'.
After watching the coconut men at work, we were taken further down the water to some spice fields and finally ended up climbing onto a Rice Boat and being sailed over to a little shack where lunch was served.
Our plates were in fact banana leaves! I turned to see how Claudine would react and over heard her telling one of the other people in our group that they were probably more hygenic than plates. Then I watched as she carefully took out her hand sanitiser and cleaned her spoon with it!

The food was delicious! In fact it was the first time in ages I had managed to eat a full meal! And as Claude and I sat sweating from the unbelievable humidity, we commented on what a nice day it was.
There was an English woman sitting next to her, that seemed to do nothing but complain about her stay in India and she turned to me and asked what was so nice about it. I started to explain but she interrupted me and said: 'There was nothing there that you couldn't get in England! Every summer I hire a barge and go down the River for a few weeks in the Midlands and that to me is enough, this out here is nothing more special'. Then she went on to moan about the clothes and jewellery and how it was all stuff that could be bought in the UK.
Claude and I smiled at her, made our excuses and walked away. As far as I am concerned if she prefers canaling in the Midlands to sailing along the Backwaters in South India then I'll book her on the next flight back!!!
By the time we got back to the Homestay (we were actually staying in the same one this time!!!!!) it was late and we were so exhausted from the heat, that an early night was had by all. I lay in bed, closed my eyes and felt as though I was still bobbing on the water as I drifted off to a full nights sleep.
Today we went to Jew Town!!! Well actually it is really just one road with a synagogue on it. I think there are only 9 Jewish people left in Kerala now, most live in Mombai (Bombay) and there are only a total of 9.000 in the whole of India!! Most had fled to Israel when she was given Independence. Although I thought the synagogue itself was quite small, I was quite suprised to find out it is in fact the first and largest one in the whole of Asia!!!
Rather than hang around in the area for lunch, we agreed it was too hot to walk around and find somewhere decent. So we managed to grab the first Tuk Tuk and bartered a decent price to get back to Fort Cochin. Even though it was a small journey, the driver still managed to squeeze in two stops in which he tried to talk us into going into the shops and buying some 'cheap goods'. He wouldn't accept no for an answer saying we didn't understand what he was saying, but he soon enough understood when Claudine said she needed to get back because she felt ill and then did an impression of throwing up!!! His foot hit the accelerator so fast, I thought we were going to break the sound barrier!!!
This evening before dinner I thought that I would treat myself to getting some waxing done!!! Seeing as we are off to a nice resort tomorrow, I don't really want to show myself up. So I hoped on over to the salon over the road where I made an appointment for later that afternoon.
I returned later that day and was shown into the back area of the shop that had been curtained off. The bed was covered in a sheet that looked like it had been around since the 60's and probably not washed since then either! The walls were peeling and there was a big crucifix hanging over my head.
I climbed onto the bed, trying to stay calm as the therapist smiled and struggled to get the lid of a pot of wax, then stuck her spatula into the hardened mixture within and tried to scrape it down the front of my leg. Then she called to the lady at reception who bought over the wax heater, that also looked like it had seen better times (and less rustier ones too!!!) and told me to wait two minutes while they heated the wax up.
I don't know what possessed me to wait, but I did and watched as she tried again to roll some of this gloopy, warm mixture onto my shin and slowly ripped it off with a piece of cloth, obviously as the wax hadn't been heated properly not much happened, so she went over the same area, again and again and again. My first thought was: 'Bikini Line is next!!!' and I lept of the bed and said I would be back later on as I ran out of the 'salon' almost tripping over my trouser legs as I pulled them up!
Suffice it to say I will be going to the resort tomorrow looking slightly 'German'.
Goodbye Fort Cochin, Thodupuzha here we come ...